A South Korean soldier patrolling the deserted platform area at Dorasan station in South Korea, which was rebuilt so that passengers could travel from there into North Korea.
A South Korean soldier patrolling the deserted platform area at Dorasan station in South Korea, which was rebuilt so that passengers could travel from there into North Korea.
A South Korean soldier patrolling the deserted platform area at Dorasan station in South Korea, which was rebuilt so that passengers could travel from there into North Korea.
A South Korean soldier patrolling the deserted platform area at Dorasan station in South Korea, which was rebuilt so that passengers could travel from there into North Korea.

South Korea's railway to nowhere, symbol of failed rapprochement with North


Daniel Bardsley
  • English
  • Arabic

DORASAN STATION // The smiling foreign tourists wait patiently as they queue to buy tickets at this station, the last stop a few kilometres south of the border with North Korea.

There are parents with children, young couples and wizened globetrotters standing in line in front of the cashier.

Nearby, the entry to the platform optimistically proclaims "To Pyongyang" in Korean and English, and a huge Korail billboard shouts out that this is "Not the last station from the South, but the first station toward the North".

South Korea's capital, Seoul, is 56km to the south of Dorasan station, which lies just outside the demilitarised zone between the countries, while Pyongyang, the North Korean capital, is 205km up the tracks to the north.

While this appears at first to be a fully functioning railway station, the tickets on sale will not get the visitors - all of them taking a day-trip in and around the South Korean side of the demilitarised zone between the two Koreas - very far: they are merely entry permits for the platform.

There are no trains passing through Dorasan today, tomorrow or the next day because this is South Korea's railway station to nowhere, an unhappy monument to failed optimism and continued strife on the peninsula.

After a summit between the two Koreas in 2000, millions of dollars were lavished on rebuilding Dorasan station as part of an agreement to reopen the Gyeongui line, which linked Seoul and Pyongyang when it was opened more than a century ago.

It was a highly visible demonstration of the "sunshine policy" of overtures to North Korea under the then president, Kim Dae-jung.

In February 2002, the US president at the time, George W Bush, visited the station with Mr Kim. Two months later the station officially reopened and in June 2003 the Gyeongui line was reconnected.

For Mr Kim, elected in 1998 and awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 2000 for his efforts to promote rapprochement on the peninsula, the station was meant to represent further evidence that these two countries, divided for more than half a century, were moving closer together.

In 2007, under Mr Kim's successor, Roh Moo-hyun, freight services between the two countries began passing through the station, but by late 2008 South Korea was taking a tougher line with Pyongyang under Lee Myung-bak and even these trains stopped.

No passengers have travelled into North Korea from the refurbished station, and the X-ray machines and customs stations for departing travellers remain unused.

"The sunshine policy basically failed," said Li Mingjiang, an associate professor at the S Rajaratnam School of International Studies at Nanyang Technological University in Singapore, who studies East Asian security issues.

"The majority of people in South Korea, especially the elite, realised South Korean encouragement of North Korea in all these policies in the sunshine package had not produced the positive results the policymakers during Kim Dae-Jung's era anticipated."

Recent North Korean assertiveness means Mr Lee and the present administration "cannot find any justification to adopt any elements of the old sunshine policy".

Last year relations plunged to a new low after North Korea was blamed for the sinking of the South Korean warship Cheonan with the loss of 46 lives and North Korea bombarded South Korea's Yeonpyeong island, killing two civilians and two young marines.

A change of attitude from North Korea , Mr Li said, could result from the probably eventual transfer of power from the present North Korean leader, Kim Jong-il, to his son, Kim Jong-un.

"If you have that overall positive transformation of the regional security situation, it's possible South Korea may consider reopening that station in the future, but right now it's too early to say," Mr Li said.

Back on the platform, there are a few people milling about taking photographs and posing alongside a young South Korean soldier.

After a few minutes, the khaki-clad soldier rounds up the tourists and shepherds them to the exit, leaving the platform and the railway tracks eerily quiet.

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The number of followers that Michael Cinco’s Instagram account has garnered.

Results

2pm: Maiden (PA) Dh 40,000 (Dirt) 1,200m, Winner: AF Thayer, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Ernst Oertel (trainer).

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3.30pm: Handicap (PA) Dh 40,000 (D) 2,000m, Winner: AF Mezmar, Szczepan Mazur, Ernst Oertel.

4pm: Sheikh Hamdan bin Rashid Al Maktoum Cup presented by Longines (TB) Dh 200,000 (D) 1,700m, Winner: Galvanize, Nathan Cross, Doug Watson.

4.30pm: Handicap (PA) Dh 40,000 (D) 1,700m, Winner: Ajaj, Bernardo Pinheiro, Mohamed Daggash.

What is Folia?

Prince Khaled bin Alwaleed bin Talal's new plant-based menu will launch at Four Seasons hotels in Dubai this November. A desire to cater to people looking for clean, healthy meals beyond green salad is what inspired Prince Khaled and American celebrity chef Matthew Kenney to create Folia. The word means "from the leaves" in Latin, and the exclusive menu offers fine plant-based cuisine across Four Seasons properties in Los Angeles, Bahrain and, soon, Dubai.

Kenney specialises in vegan cuisine and is the founder of Plant Food Wine and 20 other restaurants worldwide. "I’ve always appreciated Matthew’s work," says the Saudi royal. "He has a singular culinary talent and his approach to plant-based dining is prescient and unrivalled. I was a fan of his long before we established our professional relationship."

Folia first launched at The Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills in July 2018. It is available at the poolside Cabana Restaurant and for in-room dining across the property, as well as in its private event space. The food is vibrant and colourful, full of fresh dishes such as the hearts of palm ceviche with California fruit, vegetables and edible flowers; green hearb tacos filled with roasted squash and king oyster barbacoa; and a savoury coconut cream pie with macadamia crust.

In March 2019, the Folia menu reached Gulf shores, as it was introduced at the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay, where it is served at the Bay View Lounge. Next, on Tuesday, November 1 – also known as World Vegan Day – it will come to the UAE, to the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach and the Four Seasons DIFC, both properties Prince Khaled has spent "considerable time at and love". 

There are also plans to take Folia to several more locations throughout the Middle East and Europe.

While health-conscious diners will be attracted to the concept, Prince Khaled is careful to stress Folia is "not meant for a specific subset of customers. It is meant for everyone who wants a culinary experience without the negative impact that eating out so often comes with."

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Name: Brendalle Belaza

From: Crossing Rubber, Philippines

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Favourite photography style: Street photography

Favourite book: Harry Potter

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Sarfira

Director: Sudha Kongara Prasad

Starring: Akshay Kumar, Radhika Madan, Paresh Rawal 

Rating: 2/5

The specs

Engine: 1.5-litre turbo

Power: 181hp

Torque: 230Nm

Transmission: 6-speed automatic

Starting price: Dh79,000

On sale: Now

WORLD CUP FINAL

England v South Africa

Yokohama International Stadium, Tokyo

Saturday, kick-off 1pm (UAE)

Sole survivors
  • Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
  • George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
  • Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
  • Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
AUSTRALIA SQUADS

ODI squad: Aaron Finch (captain), Ashton Agar, Alex Carey, Pat Cummins, Josh Hazlewood, Marnus Labuschagne, Mitchell Marsh, Glenn Maxwell, Kane Richardson, Steve Smith, Mitchell Starc, Matthew Wade, David Warner, Adam Zampa

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Price, base: Dh145,000

Engine: 2.0-litre turbocharged in-line four-cylinder engine

Transmission: Nine-speed automatic

Power: 237hp @ 5,000rpm

Torque: 350Nm @ 1,500rpm

Fuel economy, combined: 8.7L / 100km

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Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo

Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm

Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm

Transmission: 8-speed auto

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Price: From Dh149,900

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2012 - Mark Webber (Red Bull Racing)
2011 - Fernando Alonso (Ferrari)
2010 - Mark Webber (Red Bull Racing)
2009 - Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull Racing)
2008 - Lewis Hamilton (McLaren)
2007 - Kimi Raikkonen (Ferrari)

The alternatives

• Founded in 2014, Telr is a payment aggregator and gateway with an office in Silicon Oasis. It’s e-commerce entry plan costs Dh349 monthly (plus VAT). QR codes direct customers to an online payment page and merchants can generate payments through messaging apps.

• Business Bay’s Pallapay claims 40,000-plus active merchants who can invoice customers and receive payment by card. Fees range from 1.99 per cent plus Dh1 per transaction depending on payment method and location, such as online or via UAE mobile.

• Tap started in May 2013 in Kuwait, allowing Middle East businesses to bill, accept, receive and make payments online “easier, faster and smoother” via goSell and goCollect. It supports more than 10,000 merchants. Monthly fees range from US$65-100, plus card charges of 2.75-3.75 per cent and Dh1.2 per sale.

2checkout’s “all-in-one payment gateway and merchant account” accepts payments in 200-plus markets for 2.4-3.9 per cent, plus a Dh1.2-Dh1.8 currency conversion charge. The US provider processes online shop and mobile transactions and has 17,000-plus active digital commerce users.

• PayPal is probably the best-known online goods payment method - usually used for eBay purchases -  but can be used to receive funds, providing everyone’s signed up. Costs from 2.9 per cent plus Dh1.2 per transaction.

Paatal Lok season two

Directors: Avinash Arun, Prosit Roy 

Stars: Jaideep Ahlawat, Ishwak Singh, Lc Sekhose, Merenla Imsong

Rating: 4.5/5

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting

2. Prayer

3. Hajj

4. Shahada

5. Zakat